How to read this chart
Every swatch above was computed with a Kubelka-Munk model, the physics used in paint and printing to predict how pigments absorb and scatter light. That is why yellow and blue come out green here instead of the gray you'd get by averaging their RGB numbers. The same model runs the color mixer, where you can mix your own colors in any ratio.
The paints are sample values for common student colors: a primary red (#C1272D), yellow (#F7D117) and blue (#1F3FBF), plus cyan, magenta, ultramarine, burnt umber, white and black. Real tubes vary by brand, so use the chart for direction and confirm with a test swatch.
Three things the chart shows
- Painter's primaries make muddy purples. Red and blue give #4C3442, nearer brown than violet. Magenta and ultramarine give a clean purple, which is why the purple recipe page leads with them.
- Printing primaries are cleaner. Cyan and yellow make a vivid green and cyan with magenta makes a real blue, something a red, yellow and blue set can't do.
- Complements neutralize. Red with green, or umber with ultramarine, cancel toward brown, gray and near-black. That's how painters mix shadows without reaching for black.
Mixing tips that apply to every color
- Add the stronger color to the weaker one in small amounts: blue into yellow, red into white, black into anything.
- White cools and dulls as it lightens. Add a touch of the original color back if a tint looks chalky.
- Black can shift hue. Yellow plus black turns olive rather than dark yellow.
- Write down ratios as parts, like the recipe cards do, so you can mix the same color again.
Paint, ink and light
Pigments subtract light, so mixing them makes colors darker. Light adds, so on a screen red and green light make yellow, and all three primaries make white. If you work digitally, the color wheel and complementary colors tools work with screen color directly.